It's a Matter of 'Grace' by Lori Simmons
Grace came to my farm as a foster horse from Volunteer Equine Advocates as a coming 3 year old unhandled filly. After several hours in the round pen, with the help of several other volunteers, we managed to get a halter on her and loaded on my trailer to head home. At this time, I never would have guessed that Grace would become a teacher as much as a student in our relationship.
I have had the opportunity to work with some great young horses over the years and each one has given me invaluable knowledge. Just like people, horses have their own personality and horse "teachers" must be sensitive to the differences in each horse and use strategies that fit the horse and not try to put the horse in a one-size-fits-all box. Grace has definitely kept me thinking "outside the box."
Her first week at my farm was spent in the limited space of a stall. This arrangement allowed me to catch her easily and begin her desensitizing to being handled. I did the usual rope exercises all over her body and legs, which I must say in hindsight the confines of a stall was the safest choice for this activity. Not only did the stall provide some means of containment, after her first couple of days, it was her "safe" place. I could expand this "comfort area" outside the stall gradually.
Another aspect of teaching horses is knowing when and how much agression is appropriate for any given horse or situation. According to Clint Anderson, "Some people can be a little too aggressive. They are often overly demanding and don't give the horse a chance to understand what is being asked...Other people have trouble asserting themselves, driving the horse out of their space, or showing with their body language that they are not happy."
When I read this the other day, I reflected on how I work with Grace. If the teacher is too aggressive, she will make the horse afraid, which is counter to what you want to accomplish. I don't believe there is a teacher out there that has never crossed a horse that she was too aggressive with and, hopefully, realized she needed to change her approach to that horse "individual." Errors can and will be made, it is how one deals with the error that matters.
One particular event with Grace that made me think about what exactly I was teaching her had to do with the fact I was desensitizing her to a rope, yet I was going to use a rope to cue her to move away from me during ground work. This did not make sense to me and I could only imagine it would be confusing to Grace as well. For every question, there is an answer. I decided the cue I would reinforce rope signal with my hand and voice cues. I suppose I was doing that before, but because Grace was particularily sensitive to the rope right after we worked on lunging and ground work, I realized I needed to be sure I was more clear with my voice and hand cues and rely less on the rope cue. Consequently, this rationalization can be applied to the use of whips as well.
Another Grace "moment" spawned another epiphany. Say what you mean, mean what you say. If you ask a horse to do something, wait until they respond to your question. Don't give up. Give your horse time to think about what you want. I have a medium-size tree down in my yard. It makes for a great obstacle to lead a horse over. On this particular day, I decided to ask Grace to maneuver over the lifeless chunk of wood. The first time was a breeze. She just walked over it. But, for some reason her horse brain rationalized that the next time she wasn't game for my obstacle crossing and planted her feet. At first, I kept asking her to move verbally and kept a little pressure on the line. Then I made it more uncomfortable for her to stay on the other side of the tree by moving her hind end back and forth. Finally, my persistence paid off. She crossed and crossed several more times after that. I was thrilled to see her thinking about solving the question.
Horses communicate using their body language. Everything they do is saying something to you. Never take this fact forgranted when you are working with your horse. A nudge, a slight step towards you, even licking their lips means something. I'll admit it, I use treats to teach horses. But, there is a fine line between teaching with treats and spoiling with treats. To avoid you horse learning that you are a treat machine they can crowd and nip at, use treats wisely. There have been horses I have to not use treats at all, because they started developing pushy behavior. Then their is Grace. At Volunteer Equine Advocates it is common practice to use treats to help the horses become more accepting of people. In fact, the only way we got Grace in the round pen the first day is with some feed and treats. But, after working a while in the round pen that day, Grace was doing just enough to get the treat and no more. It was quite humorous and also showed off her intelligence. Now, when I work with Grace, she only gets treats after very demanding questions or when we are finished.
Grace has been a blessing to have at my farm and we will continue to teach each other until her forever owner comes and adopts her. If you would like more information about adopting Grace, visit the Volunteer Equine Advocates' website at http://www.vea-tnhorserescue.org/RP_AdoptMe.asp?aid=580 and fill out an adoption application.
"The level of respect your horse gives you, and the amount of progress he makes in his training, are directly related to the time and effort you give him."--Clint Anderson
I have had the opportunity to work with some great young horses over the years and each one has given me invaluable knowledge. Just like people, horses have their own personality and horse "teachers" must be sensitive to the differences in each horse and use strategies that fit the horse and not try to put the horse in a one-size-fits-all box. Grace has definitely kept me thinking "outside the box."
Her first week at my farm was spent in the limited space of a stall. This arrangement allowed me to catch her easily and begin her desensitizing to being handled. I did the usual rope exercises all over her body and legs, which I must say in hindsight the confines of a stall was the safest choice for this activity. Not only did the stall provide some means of containment, after her first couple of days, it was her "safe" place. I could expand this "comfort area" outside the stall gradually.
Another aspect of teaching horses is knowing when and how much agression is appropriate for any given horse or situation. According to Clint Anderson, "Some people can be a little too aggressive. They are often overly demanding and don't give the horse a chance to understand what is being asked...Other people have trouble asserting themselves, driving the horse out of their space, or showing with their body language that they are not happy."
When I read this the other day, I reflected on how I work with Grace. If the teacher is too aggressive, she will make the horse afraid, which is counter to what you want to accomplish. I don't believe there is a teacher out there that has never crossed a horse that she was too aggressive with and, hopefully, realized she needed to change her approach to that horse "individual." Errors can and will be made, it is how one deals with the error that matters.
One particular event with Grace that made me think about what exactly I was teaching her had to do with the fact I was desensitizing her to a rope, yet I was going to use a rope to cue her to move away from me during ground work. This did not make sense to me and I could only imagine it would be confusing to Grace as well. For every question, there is an answer. I decided the cue I would reinforce rope signal with my hand and voice cues. I suppose I was doing that before, but because Grace was particularily sensitive to the rope right after we worked on lunging and ground work, I realized I needed to be sure I was more clear with my voice and hand cues and rely less on the rope cue. Consequently, this rationalization can be applied to the use of whips as well.
Another Grace "moment" spawned another epiphany. Say what you mean, mean what you say. If you ask a horse to do something, wait until they respond to your question. Don't give up. Give your horse time to think about what you want. I have a medium-size tree down in my yard. It makes for a great obstacle to lead a horse over. On this particular day, I decided to ask Grace to maneuver over the lifeless chunk of wood. The first time was a breeze. She just walked over it. But, for some reason her horse brain rationalized that the next time she wasn't game for my obstacle crossing and planted her feet. At first, I kept asking her to move verbally and kept a little pressure on the line. Then I made it more uncomfortable for her to stay on the other side of the tree by moving her hind end back and forth. Finally, my persistence paid off. She crossed and crossed several more times after that. I was thrilled to see her thinking about solving the question.
Horses communicate using their body language. Everything they do is saying something to you. Never take this fact forgranted when you are working with your horse. A nudge, a slight step towards you, even licking their lips means something. I'll admit it, I use treats to teach horses. But, there is a fine line between teaching with treats and spoiling with treats. To avoid you horse learning that you are a treat machine they can crowd and nip at, use treats wisely. There have been horses I have to not use treats at all, because they started developing pushy behavior. Then their is Grace. At Volunteer Equine Advocates it is common practice to use treats to help the horses become more accepting of people. In fact, the only way we got Grace in the round pen the first day is with some feed and treats. But, after working a while in the round pen that day, Grace was doing just enough to get the treat and no more. It was quite humorous and also showed off her intelligence. Now, when I work with Grace, she only gets treats after very demanding questions or when we are finished.
Grace has been a blessing to have at my farm and we will continue to teach each other until her forever owner comes and adopts her. If you would like more information about adopting Grace, visit the Volunteer Equine Advocates' website at http://www.vea-tnhorserescue.org/RP_AdoptMe.asp?aid=580 and fill out an adoption application.
"The level of respect your horse gives you, and the amount of progress he makes in his training, are directly related to the time and effort you give him."--Clint Anderson
'Tis the Season for Thrush
During the winter months, many paddocks and pastures have one thing in common—mud. Besides making a huge mess for you to deal with, mud can also cause problems for your horse, like a hoof infection commonly called thrush. The average horse barn is full of naturally occurring bacteria that thrive especially well in wet, muddy or unclean conditions. The bacteria get into the cleft and grooves in the horse’s foot and eat away at the tissue, causing the hoof to rot. In severe cases, thrush can cause an infection in between the bulbs of the heel, massive tissue loss in the hoof and lameness.
Most owners find their horse has thrush while cleaning out the horse’s hooves. The frog and some parts of the hoof will be black or darkened, and when scraped with the hoof pick, pieces of the hoof will flake off. Thrush also causes a strong odor, noticeable when the owner removes the packed dirt and manure. Most cases of thrush, if caught soon enough, do not require veterinary treatment.
Prevention is the best policy. Be sure to check your horse’s living environment. A horse with access to a clean dry living area is much less likely to have thrush than one kept in a moist area full of manure. If your options are limited and you can’t afford to mud-proof your paddock, a good grooming routine will also help reduce the chances of your horse developing a serious case of thrush.
Once your horse has thrush it is important to treat it promptly. After picking out the packed dirt and debris, scrub the hoof clean with a small brush and soap and water. Then, apply a disinfectant or medication (several are available on the market) to the affected hoof area. You must do this daily until the infection is cleared up. For more serious infections, some of the frog may need to be trimmed away and the horse may need antibiotics. Contact your veterinarian immediately for severe cases of thrush.
Every year horse owners across the U.S. must deal with wet, muddy conditions. With a little prevention and good hoof care, you can minimize the chances your horse will suffer from thrush. Remember, dry, clean feet don’t get thrush.
Most owners find their horse has thrush while cleaning out the horse’s hooves. The frog and some parts of the hoof will be black or darkened, and when scraped with the hoof pick, pieces of the hoof will flake off. Thrush also causes a strong odor, noticeable when the owner removes the packed dirt and manure. Most cases of thrush, if caught soon enough, do not require veterinary treatment.
Prevention is the best policy. Be sure to check your horse’s living environment. A horse with access to a clean dry living area is much less likely to have thrush than one kept in a moist area full of manure. If your options are limited and you can’t afford to mud-proof your paddock, a good grooming routine will also help reduce the chances of your horse developing a serious case of thrush.
Once your horse has thrush it is important to treat it promptly. After picking out the packed dirt and debris, scrub the hoof clean with a small brush and soap and water. Then, apply a disinfectant or medication (several are available on the market) to the affected hoof area. You must do this daily until the infection is cleared up. For more serious infections, some of the frog may need to be trimmed away and the horse may need antibiotics. Contact your veterinarian immediately for severe cases of thrush.
Every year horse owners across the U.S. must deal with wet, muddy conditions. With a little prevention and good hoof care, you can minimize the chances your horse will suffer from thrush. Remember, dry, clean feet don’t get thrush.
Supplement Winter Forage with Organic Seed Mix
When you think of seeds, you may think of birds. Who would have thought that adding certain seeds to your horse's diet could be beneficial? I was introduced to this concept more than a year ago and thought I'd give it a try after my Holsteiner gelding had a difficult time keeping weight through the winter. Interestingly enough after feeding him seed mixture, I noticed improvements in the condition of his feet, coat and overall weight.
According to equine nutritionist, Cindy Daigre of Ferrell Hollow Farm, "horses on grass restriction or fed low quality forages may need to have additional vitamins and minerals added to round out their diet." She explained, "more forage is fed in the Winter when the grasses are gone, and essential nutrients are lacking in the diet."
A good seed mix will provide minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper and zinc;
vitamins B and E; and also adequate amounts of protein, fiber, and amino and fatty acids.
More information about seed and herbal mixtures for your horses is available at www.ferrellhollowfarm.net/Store.html.
According to equine nutritionist, Cindy Daigre of Ferrell Hollow Farm, "horses on grass restriction or fed low quality forages may need to have additional vitamins and minerals added to round out their diet." She explained, "more forage is fed in the Winter when the grasses are gone, and essential nutrients are lacking in the diet."
A good seed mix will provide minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper and zinc;
vitamins B and E; and also adequate amounts of protein, fiber, and amino and fatty acids.
More information about seed and herbal mixtures for your horses is available at www.ferrellhollowfarm.net/Store.html.
Where will you get your next horse?
Photo courtesy of Volunteer Equine Advocates
If you watch television long enough, you are bound to see the ads for donations to save all the unwanted dogs and cats across the United States. As an animal lover, the big brown puppy eyes and floppy ears really pull on my heart strings. I would like to believe I have done my fair share in the effort to help. At least my husband can attest to my undying commitment to rescue as many dogs and cats as I possibly can afford. One visit to my house and you will see the five cats and five dogs, most of which were rescues. But, no matter how much I try, there will always be another homeless dog or cat. Recently, the reality of animals suffering for human gain, hit home again--this time on a much larger scale.
I don't know why, but I really enjoy looking through classified ads. I hardly ever buy anything, but I still like looking. One of my favorite places to view ads is on Craigslist.org, in the farm and garden section. Over the years, I've noticed an interesting phenomena occurring--more and more horses are up for sale. I suppose a bad economy may be forcing people to sell their horses, but I still felt something tugging on my heart strings once again. One ad read something like this: "BIG HORSE SALE!!! Need to sell horses ASAP. Need money for fencing and stalls. Can't care for horses due to health. Prices from $150-$1000. Ponies, Mustangs, Quarter Horses and more." I could go on and on about what I think is ethically wrong with this ad, but there is a greater point I am aiming for, the realization that the pet overpopulation is not isolated to dogs and cats, horses everywhere are suffering as a result of indiscriminate buying, selling and breeding.
According to the Unwanted Horse Coalition, tens of thousands of horses are being shipped to "processing facilities" in the U.S., Canada and Mexico each year. The coalition's Web site also states that the main reasons horses become unwanted is because they get sick or injured, are too old or outgrown, become dangerous, are too expensive to keep, or become a burden.
Over the years, I have worked with many horses and riders. One issue I have run into repeatedly was a horse and rider mismatch. This type of mismatch can be due to an inexperienced person buying a horse that has little or no training for herself or her child, purchasing an inappropriate gender (like a stallion instead of a gelding or mare) or choosing the horse strictly on the breed or looks. Even for an experienced horse person, a mismatch can be devastating to the future of the horse and rider. So, how can you avoid getting the wrong horse hooked up with the wrong rider?
The first line of defense is with the breeder. Breeders should have a systematic goal for their breeding program.
Choosing the best characteristics to put out the best performers for what ever discipline you are aiming for without sacrificing temperament. Some of the best bred horses end up in bad situations simply because they become too dangerous as a result of temperamental issues that could have been avoided by careful breeding.
The seller also has a responsibility to make sure the horse and rider fit with each other. One thing I have never understood is why people believe the best first horse is a young untrained foal? I don't know that I have personally ever seen this work out for the best, unless the owner has tons of money to spend on a trainer and years to take riding lessons on an already trained horse. Even then, success is scarce. My word to all the soon-to-be first ever horse owners is horses are not puppy dogs, younger doesn't mean they will bond more with you.
More times than not, the best horse for a first-time horse owner is a horse that has seen and done it all. But, even more experienced riders can end up with a horse that doesn't quite fit her personality. This is why it is imperative for
sellers to make sure the horse and rider will be able to work together, before signing the bill of sale.
Finally, the buyer can be sure she doesn't base her horse selection strictly on what's on the outside of the horse. Horses are individuals and act accordingly. A horse that may not have perfect conformation may have the heart of a competitor and be able to pull a few tricks out of his sock. That being said, conformation is a consideration when looking for a horse for a particular discipline; however, don't be too hard on a horse if he has a good temperament, but less than perfect body. As long as the vet clears him for the discipline you aim to perform, don't overlook a horse simply because of minor flaws. The horse's mind is what is most important. To be successful, a rider must be able to work together with her horse. If there is conflicting personalities, both horse and rider will suffer in the long run.
Next time you have a chance to caress the velvet muzzle of a horse, remember how lucky you are to have such a friend. I plan on taking time to appreciate my equine family members and try to give some of the less fortunate ones another chance. I may not be able to save them all, but I'm sure if we all do our part, it will add up enough to make a huge dent in the world of the unwanted horse.
Some sites to check into are The Unwanted Horse Coalition at www.unwantedhorsecoalition.org, Volunteer Equine Advocates at www.vea-tnhorserescue.org, and Horse Haven of Tennessee at www.horsehaventn.org.
I don't know why, but I really enjoy looking through classified ads. I hardly ever buy anything, but I still like looking. One of my favorite places to view ads is on Craigslist.org, in the farm and garden section. Over the years, I've noticed an interesting phenomena occurring--more and more horses are up for sale. I suppose a bad economy may be forcing people to sell their horses, but I still felt something tugging on my heart strings once again. One ad read something like this: "BIG HORSE SALE!!! Need to sell horses ASAP. Need money for fencing and stalls. Can't care for horses due to health. Prices from $150-$1000. Ponies, Mustangs, Quarter Horses and more." I could go on and on about what I think is ethically wrong with this ad, but there is a greater point I am aiming for, the realization that the pet overpopulation is not isolated to dogs and cats, horses everywhere are suffering as a result of indiscriminate buying, selling and breeding.
According to the Unwanted Horse Coalition, tens of thousands of horses are being shipped to "processing facilities" in the U.S., Canada and Mexico each year. The coalition's Web site also states that the main reasons horses become unwanted is because they get sick or injured, are too old or outgrown, become dangerous, are too expensive to keep, or become a burden.
Over the years, I have worked with many horses and riders. One issue I have run into repeatedly was a horse and rider mismatch. This type of mismatch can be due to an inexperienced person buying a horse that has little or no training for herself or her child, purchasing an inappropriate gender (like a stallion instead of a gelding or mare) or choosing the horse strictly on the breed or looks. Even for an experienced horse person, a mismatch can be devastating to the future of the horse and rider. So, how can you avoid getting the wrong horse hooked up with the wrong rider?
The first line of defense is with the breeder. Breeders should have a systematic goal for their breeding program.
Choosing the best characteristics to put out the best performers for what ever discipline you are aiming for without sacrificing temperament. Some of the best bred horses end up in bad situations simply because they become too dangerous as a result of temperamental issues that could have been avoided by careful breeding.
The seller also has a responsibility to make sure the horse and rider fit with each other. One thing I have never understood is why people believe the best first horse is a young untrained foal? I don't know that I have personally ever seen this work out for the best, unless the owner has tons of money to spend on a trainer and years to take riding lessons on an already trained horse. Even then, success is scarce. My word to all the soon-to-be first ever horse owners is horses are not puppy dogs, younger doesn't mean they will bond more with you.
More times than not, the best horse for a first-time horse owner is a horse that has seen and done it all. But, even more experienced riders can end up with a horse that doesn't quite fit her personality. This is why it is imperative for
sellers to make sure the horse and rider will be able to work together, before signing the bill of sale.
Finally, the buyer can be sure she doesn't base her horse selection strictly on what's on the outside of the horse. Horses are individuals and act accordingly. A horse that may not have perfect conformation may have the heart of a competitor and be able to pull a few tricks out of his sock. That being said, conformation is a consideration when looking for a horse for a particular discipline; however, don't be too hard on a horse if he has a good temperament, but less than perfect body. As long as the vet clears him for the discipline you aim to perform, don't overlook a horse simply because of minor flaws. The horse's mind is what is most important. To be successful, a rider must be able to work together with her horse. If there is conflicting personalities, both horse and rider will suffer in the long run.
Next time you have a chance to caress the velvet muzzle of a horse, remember how lucky you are to have such a friend. I plan on taking time to appreciate my equine family members and try to give some of the less fortunate ones another chance. I may not be able to save them all, but I'm sure if we all do our part, it will add up enough to make a huge dent in the world of the unwanted horse.
Some sites to check into are The Unwanted Horse Coalition at www.unwantedhorsecoalition.org, Volunteer Equine Advocates at www.vea-tnhorserescue.org, and Horse Haven of Tennessee at www.horsehaventn.org.
To Shoe, or Not to Shoe
Have you considered never wearing shoes again? Although for most humans going barefoot might not have the most favorable outcome, to the horse it doesn’t sound that bad. In fact, there are benefits to having your horse barefoot.
“Even if your farrier puts the shoes on properly,” Marjorie Smith, editor of barefoot Horse.com, explained, “as the foot grows, the shoe will deform the natural shape of the hoof, as well as cause cellular damage.”
According to Smith, these changes can make it difficult or impossible for the horse to have the correct “heel-first landing” movement of the foot.
Without the proper landing, the physiological aspects of the hoof will not work and could lead to bigger issues within the foot. “Everything about the hoof, such as its blood circulation, is affected,” Smith said.
The barefoot trim, also known by other names such as, the wild horse trim and the performance barefoot trim, copies the way wild horse hooves naturally wear down. “In the barefoot trim, the hoof wall is trimmed to the level of the sole and beveled to the white inside layer of the wall,” Smith explained, “this is where the wild horses feet wear to for a correct break over.”
Smith continued to describe how the heels are shortened, and the bars and frog are trimmed, unlike the ordinary pasture trim. “In the pasture trim, the heels are high, the toe is shortened to the point the protective callus is removed and there is no mustang roll,” Smith said.
Although the barefoot trim may seem pretty straight forward, it takes some planning for the process to work. "Many horses that have been shod will have to go through a transition period while the damaged hoof grows out and is replaced with a healthier hoof,” Smith pointed out, “during this period the horse may be sore.”
Smith recommends owners use hoof boots if needed, since the rehabilitation could take up to a year. "Patience and a well fitted pair of boots on the front feet usually handles everything,” Smith said, “hind feet don’t usually need boots.” Of course a little common sense will help you go a long way. Smith advises owners to wait for the off season before removing shoes and starting the barefoot trim.
The most important aspect of barefoot trimming is the end result. Smith emphasized, “Most horses are put down before their time because of mechanical founder or navicular pain, both caused by incorrect forces the shoes put on the hoof.” She said giving a horse a longer sounder life not only benefits the horse, but gives the owner more time to ride their beloved horses.
For more information on the barefoot trim, go to www.barefoothorse.com.
“Even if your farrier puts the shoes on properly,” Marjorie Smith, editor of barefoot Horse.com, explained, “as the foot grows, the shoe will deform the natural shape of the hoof, as well as cause cellular damage.”
According to Smith, these changes can make it difficult or impossible for the horse to have the correct “heel-first landing” movement of the foot.
Without the proper landing, the physiological aspects of the hoof will not work and could lead to bigger issues within the foot. “Everything about the hoof, such as its blood circulation, is affected,” Smith said.
The barefoot trim, also known by other names such as, the wild horse trim and the performance barefoot trim, copies the way wild horse hooves naturally wear down. “In the barefoot trim, the hoof wall is trimmed to the level of the sole and beveled to the white inside layer of the wall,” Smith explained, “this is where the wild horses feet wear to for a correct break over.”
Smith continued to describe how the heels are shortened, and the bars and frog are trimmed, unlike the ordinary pasture trim. “In the pasture trim, the heels are high, the toe is shortened to the point the protective callus is removed and there is no mustang roll,” Smith said.
Although the barefoot trim may seem pretty straight forward, it takes some planning for the process to work. "Many horses that have been shod will have to go through a transition period while the damaged hoof grows out and is replaced with a healthier hoof,” Smith pointed out, “during this period the horse may be sore.”
Smith recommends owners use hoof boots if needed, since the rehabilitation could take up to a year. "Patience and a well fitted pair of boots on the front feet usually handles everything,” Smith said, “hind feet don’t usually need boots.” Of course a little common sense will help you go a long way. Smith advises owners to wait for the off season before removing shoes and starting the barefoot trim.
The most important aspect of barefoot trimming is the end result. Smith emphasized, “Most horses are put down before their time because of mechanical founder or navicular pain, both caused by incorrect forces the shoes put on the hoof.” She said giving a horse a longer sounder life not only benefits the horse, but gives the owner more time to ride their beloved horses.
For more information on the barefoot trim, go to www.barefoothorse.com.
Winter Feeding for Senior Horses
by Cindy Daigre
In some parts of the country, winter can be especially
harsh. Horses in their senior years will often need extra assistance to stay warm and at a healthy weight.
While this is written with the senior horse in mind, any horse who is recovering from an illness, undergoing stress, is a picky eater, or a challenge to maintain can benefit from these ideas.
In today’s world of chemical-laden, genetically modified, processed and extruded feedstuffs, it is difficult to find wholesome, pure and healthy foods for our horses. Inquiring locally about organic farmers is encouraged.
Check with your local farmers’ market or go
online and search ‘organic farmers’ in your area to find them, and see what they have to offer. It is worth the effort, and they are worth supporting.
Since the grass is very limited in winter and the ground may be frozen, it is often necessary to make dietary changes to ensure the horses are consuming
enough calories and have continuous access to forage. It is best to give supplemental feeds, such as grains and seeds, in smaller portions several times a day.
There are a variety of hay feeders – some are known as “slow down” feeders–designed to keep the horse eating and occupied for longer than when just putting out loose flakes of hay.
Easy keepers and horses with digestive issues can benefit from being fed this way.
They actually enjoy pulling and yanking on the bags, which can be placed low or on the ground for natural head height, safely, because the holes are too small for a hoof to get caught in.
In some parts of the country, winter can be especially
harsh. Horses in their senior years will often need extra assistance to stay warm and at a healthy weight.
While this is written with the senior horse in mind, any horse who is recovering from an illness, undergoing stress, is a picky eater, or a challenge to maintain can benefit from these ideas.
In today’s world of chemical-laden, genetically modified, processed and extruded feedstuffs, it is difficult to find wholesome, pure and healthy foods for our horses. Inquiring locally about organic farmers is encouraged.
Check with your local farmers’ market or go
online and search ‘organic farmers’ in your area to find them, and see what they have to offer. It is worth the effort, and they are worth supporting.
Since the grass is very limited in winter and the ground may be frozen, it is often necessary to make dietary changes to ensure the horses are consuming
enough calories and have continuous access to forage. It is best to give supplemental feeds, such as grains and seeds, in smaller portions several times a day.
There are a variety of hay feeders – some are known as “slow down” feeders–designed to keep the horse eating and occupied for longer than when just putting out loose flakes of hay.
Easy keepers and horses with digestive issues can benefit from being fed this way.
They actually enjoy pulling and yanking on the bags, which can be placed low or on the ground for natural head height, safely, because the holes are too small for a hoof to get caught in.
Forage Types
Grass hay, such as orchard grass, is soft and tender and easier for the senior horse to chew. It should be of good quality and free of mold and dust.
Testing the hay through an approved lab or local agricultural office can reveal any deficiencies in the hay that would indicate the need for supplementation.
If you are unsure how much hay you will need for your horse, it is suggested that you figure 2-2.5 percent of your horse’s ideal body weight in hay per day (20-25 lbs. for a 1000 lb. horse daily).
For horse caregivers concerned with the amount of sugar and starches they feed their horses, the rule of thumb is that no feed should have more than 10% non-structural carbohydrates (NSC).
Since most commercially produced grains have well over that amount, it is much easier to accomplish this using a forage-based diet.
Grass hay, such as orchard grass, is soft and tender and easier for the senior horse to chew. It should be of good quality and free of mold and dust.
Testing the hay through an approved lab or local agricultural office can reveal any deficiencies in the hay that would indicate the need for supplementation.
If you are unsure how much hay you will need for your horse, it is suggested that you figure 2-2.5 percent of your horse’s ideal body weight in hay per day (20-25 lbs. for a 1000 lb. horse daily).
For horse caregivers concerned with the amount of sugar and starches they feed their horses, the rule of thumb is that no feed should have more than 10% non-structural carbohydrates (NSC).
Since most commercially produced grains have well over that amount, it is much easier to accomplish this using a forage-based diet.
Chopped forage, herbs and seeds make a tasty and nutritious meal.
Keep in mind that fresh, non-processed forages and hays have all the advantages, if the horse can still ‘process’ it himself by chewing and digesting it completely. However, the senior horse, especially as dental health declines, typically requires some compromises, such as chopping to make smaller forage particles. Supplementation provides added nutrients and helps to make up for diminishing absorption capabilities as well as what is lost during the processing of feeds. Easy to chew forage options include the following:
Chopped Hay Mixes: Several feed manufacturers make chopped forage products, which are a blend of grass hays, some of which contain soy or vegetable oil, so make sure to read the label. Necessary vitamins and minerals are sometimes included in these mixtures. If extra nutrients are needed, chopped, bagged alfalfa with no additives can be useful, however balancing it with other foods to keep the calcium/ phosphorus ratio to 2:1 is in order. If you
cannot find a local farmer who would chop his or your hay, an option is to use a clean chipper/ shredder to chop hay.
Chopped forage makes a great carrier when feeding supplements and can also be fed as a complete ration. The mixture pictured contains a chopped timothy/ orchard grass hay with an added custom herbal blend and seed mix.
Hay Cubes: There are many brands of grass and alfalfa cubes, so check your area feed stores for what is available. Some hay cubes are balanced with a vitamin/ mineral mix, but check the key ratios to ensure it meets your horse’s needs and is truly balanced. Common key ratios include: 2 calcium:1 phosporus:1 magnesium, 1 copper: 3 zinc:3 manganese, and 1 copper:6 iron. Although these cubes are usually smaller in size than other hay cubes, it is a wise practice to never feed them dry unless they are completely broken apart into tiny pieces that resemble chopped forage to avoid any potential choking, colic, or tooth damage issues.
Some older horses are nearing the ends of their teeth and they can become loosened prematurely by chewing hard substances. The easiest way to feed cubes for the winter is to pour hot water over them and let them soak for 20 to 40 minutes or until there are no hard pieces left. They will absorb the excess water, expand, and help to keep the horse hydrated. Prepare only the amount needed for that feeding to avoid freezing or spoilage. Herbs and supplements can be added to the soaked cubes to make a complete meal.
Hay Pellets: Make sure that the hay pellets used are hay only products, and that no fillers or unwanted ingredients are added. Years ago I was shocked to see that a bag of alfalfa pellets had animal fat added, so always ask to see the manufacturer’s label before buying. Unless the pellets are very small and easy for the senior horses to chew, avoid the risk of choke and soak them too before feeding. Pellets can also be added to various treat toys to alleviate boredom.
Fermented hays: These are usually available and can be beneficial in a senior horse’s diet, if fed using common sense and stored with care. Fermented hays contain beneficial micro-organisms, are ‘pre-digested’ and highly absorbable, and can enhance digestion. Check with your holistic veterinarian for more information on using these for your horse.
Chopped Hay Mixes: Several feed manufacturers make chopped forage products, which are a blend of grass hays, some of which contain soy or vegetable oil, so make sure to read the label. Necessary vitamins and minerals are sometimes included in these mixtures. If extra nutrients are needed, chopped, bagged alfalfa with no additives can be useful, however balancing it with other foods to keep the calcium/ phosphorus ratio to 2:1 is in order. If you
cannot find a local farmer who would chop his or your hay, an option is to use a clean chipper/ shredder to chop hay.
Chopped forage makes a great carrier when feeding supplements and can also be fed as a complete ration. The mixture pictured contains a chopped timothy/ orchard grass hay with an added custom herbal blend and seed mix.
Hay Cubes: There are many brands of grass and alfalfa cubes, so check your area feed stores for what is available. Some hay cubes are balanced with a vitamin/ mineral mix, but check the key ratios to ensure it meets your horse’s needs and is truly balanced. Common key ratios include: 2 calcium:1 phosporus:1 magnesium, 1 copper: 3 zinc:3 manganese, and 1 copper:6 iron. Although these cubes are usually smaller in size than other hay cubes, it is a wise practice to never feed them dry unless they are completely broken apart into tiny pieces that resemble chopped forage to avoid any potential choking, colic, or tooth damage issues.
Some older horses are nearing the ends of their teeth and they can become loosened prematurely by chewing hard substances. The easiest way to feed cubes for the winter is to pour hot water over them and let them soak for 20 to 40 minutes or until there are no hard pieces left. They will absorb the excess water, expand, and help to keep the horse hydrated. Prepare only the amount needed for that feeding to avoid freezing or spoilage. Herbs and supplements can be added to the soaked cubes to make a complete meal.
Hay Pellets: Make sure that the hay pellets used are hay only products, and that no fillers or unwanted ingredients are added. Years ago I was shocked to see that a bag of alfalfa pellets had animal fat added, so always ask to see the manufacturer’s label before buying. Unless the pellets are very small and easy for the senior horses to chew, avoid the risk of choke and soak them too before feeding. Pellets can also be added to various treat toys to alleviate boredom.
Fermented hays: These are usually available and can be beneficial in a senior horse’s diet, if fed using common sense and stored with care. Fermented hays contain beneficial micro-organisms, are ‘pre-digested’ and highly absorbable, and can enhance digestion. Check with your holistic veterinarian for more information on using these for your horse.
Small mesh hay nets are a safe and economical way to feed hay to your horse.
Herbs and Seeds Add Natural Nutrients
Adding herbs and seeds to a variety of forage products offers a number of health care benefits as well as keeps meal times interesting with their different flavors and textures.
Herbs and seeds also help balance the ration. Equally as important as the health benefits, the horses love having herbs and seeds mixed into their meals!
Burdock helps relieve dry, scurfy skin conditions and recurrent sores by cleansing the liver and kidneys.
Meadowsweet has been hailed as the “herbal aspirin” due to its salicylic acid content, which has anti-inflammatory properties and is useful for joint and muscle pain. It also protects the digestive tract and reduces excess acid, making it an excellent choice for ulcers and diarrhea.
Parsley is considered a digestive tonic that reduces flatulence, supports the kidneys and removes toxins that cause joint pain.
Rosemary has a wonderful fragrance, stimulates circulation and also contains antibacterial and antifungal properties.
Adding herbs and seeds to a variety of forage products offers a number of health care benefits as well as keeps meal times interesting with their different flavors and textures.
Herbs and seeds also help balance the ration. Equally as important as the health benefits, the horses love having herbs and seeds mixed into their meals!
Burdock helps relieve dry, scurfy skin conditions and recurrent sores by cleansing the liver and kidneys.
Meadowsweet has been hailed as the “herbal aspirin” due to its salicylic acid content, which has anti-inflammatory properties and is useful for joint and muscle pain. It also protects the digestive tract and reduces excess acid, making it an excellent choice for ulcers and diarrhea.
Parsley is considered a digestive tonic that reduces flatulence, supports the kidneys and removes toxins that cause joint pain.
Rosemary has a wonderful fragrance, stimulates circulation and also contains antibacterial and antifungal properties.
Sesame, sunflower and pumpkin seeds all boast good amounts of minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper and zinc, as well as vitamins B and E. Copper and zinc are considered to be critical to a horse’s hoof and skin health. Anotheradded benefit is that the amino acid cucurbitin, active in pumpkin seeds, has been shown to be effective in eliminating worms.
Flaxseed and hempseed provide essential omega-3 fatty acids (as do sesame and sunflower seeds), and other valuable nutrients.
Seeds also contain adequate amounts of protein, fiber and amino acids. Fresh seeds contain important utilizable fats, which can help maintain body weight during the colder months.
For senior horses, as for any horse, forage variety is important. Herbs, nuts and seeds add essential nutrients and help balance the diet while keeping meal times interesting. Spice up your senior horse’s diet by offering him these nutritious options, and maybe this winter won’t seem so harsh!
For more information about senior horse care or herbal supplements, visit www.ferrellhollowfarm.com, or e-mail your questions to cindy@ferrellhollowfarm.com.
Flaxseed and hempseed provide essential omega-3 fatty acids (as do sesame and sunflower seeds), and other valuable nutrients.
Seeds also contain adequate amounts of protein, fiber and amino acids. Fresh seeds contain important utilizable fats, which can help maintain body weight during the colder months.
For senior horses, as for any horse, forage variety is important. Herbs, nuts and seeds add essential nutrients and help balance the diet while keeping meal times interesting. Spice up your senior horse’s diet by offering him these nutritious options, and maybe this winter won’t seem so harsh!
For more information about senior horse care or herbal supplements, visit www.ferrellhollowfarm.com, or e-mail your questions to cindy@ferrellhollowfarm.com.